What does the garnish do
Between the block and the head of the engine pass the combustion chambers, oil channels and coolant channels. Garnish seals them all from each other. If it breaks, combustion gases enter the cooling system, and antifreeze and oil - where they should not.
Signs
- Loses antifreeze no visible leak under the car
- White smoke with a sweet smell from the exhaust that does not go away after warming up
- Bubbles in the expansion tank with the engine running
- The oil is light and foamy, "like mayonnaise" — under the cap or on the stick
- Overheating or a rising temperature
- The radiator hoses are stiff from pressure immediately after ignition
- Interruptions in one cylinder — codes like P0301
A little white steam in the cold in winter is normal - it disappears after a few minutes. If it remains on a warm engine, check.
| Can it be driven?
Not recommended. An engine that loses antifreeze or overheats can briefly warp the head or lock up. The antifreeze in the oil destroys the crankshaft bearings. The sooner it is stopped, the smaller the repair.
How is it checked?
- Coolant Exhaust Gas Test — Indicates if combustion gases are entering the system.
- Cooling system pressure test.
- Compression measurement and cylinder leak test.
- Review of the oil and candles.
What does the repair include?
The garnish itself is cheap — the expensive is the work and the reason. The headset usually burns out from overheating, and overheating warps the head. Therefore, during the repair, the head is removed and:
- It is checked for cracking — the cracked head does not fit back.
- The sealing surface is restored, if the head is distorted.
- Valves and valve seats are checked and if necessary they are repaired.
- The cause of overheating is detected — thermostat, water pump, radiator, fan — otherwise the new set will burn out again.
All operations on the head are done in our own grinding base, so the engine does not leave the workshop.